Les Allen
Jo Bulsing
Tahe Kayaks
in WA
Israelite Bay To Esperance
Israelite Bay To Esperence -4 Seasons in a week
The first thing that struck me was that peculiar ultra white, squeaky sand that is so
typical of this area. We were at Poison Creek not Israelite Bay as the track to the bay
was too rough. Poison Creek was just about dry witch was good for us as the track for
the last 200 mt is the creek. We had followed the creek out to a lovely hard white
beach tucked into the corner of a bay with no surf, ideal for launching on the first
day. For some reason it was frantic packing and off, when there was no real urgency,
as we only had about 18 to 20 km to do that day. We waved goodbye to Pam and her
friend Mike who had driven us out to the beach and headed out around the point.
Don Kinset was out front, with me and Tel Williams was just behind when Terry
Boland called out. John DiNucci had turned back as he had left his maps in the car.
It was at this point I noticed the wind picking up as we rounded the point. A dreaded
head wind, and yes it was slowly building. There was sloping granite on our right
with scrubby bush on the slope of the hill. There was a bank of white cumulus clouds
on the horizon with wispy white cloud covering the rest of the sky that was typical of
an autumn day.
The only problem was the building head wind and constant rebound wave. The water
was gray with a meter high swell coming from our left, a meter high wind wave
coming head on and a half a meter rebound going at all angles. The boats were lifted
and dumped lifted and dumped with the bow or stern sliding off at different angles
breaking your paddle rhythm as the boats yawed through the mess. By the time we
had done 18 kilometers the head wind was a steady 15 to 16 knots.
There was a bay on our right and the map showed a small knob we had to round to
get into the bay. As we approached the rocky knob we could see it was attached to the
main land by a small sand bar and where the sand bar connected with the rocky knob
was the perfect campsite. Sheltered from the wind with a stark white beach and
crystal clear water lapping up to the beach. There were also well placed flat rocks that
made excellent dinning tables. There was no discussion everyone landed and started
making camp. Don fount heaps of large Abalone that fried with garlic and chili made
an excellent main meal
The next day was a perfect summer day with light breeze and warm sun. We headed
out to Middle Island and camped in the beautiful bay. I was expecting seals on the
island as we had them playing with us at all the islands on the way out but there were
no seals on Middle Island. We left camp for a walk and when we returned the camp
was being turned over by two Pacific Gulls. They were turning over clothes opening
bags and generally trashing the place. We though this was a bit rude as they showed
no fear when approached. To top it off a little while later a meter long lizard
wandered over and did the same thing. He rummaged through all of Terry’s clothes
actually climbing inside jumpers and tee shirts. After deciding there was no food
there he calmly wandered off. Of course Don found a heap of huge Abalone so it was
a seafood dinner again.
Day three was a typical spring day with scuddy moving cloud and a 15 knot wind at
6.30 am. We headed off to Cape Arid and the wind quickly built to 20 knots gusting to
25. The seas picked up but as they were going our way it didn’t matter. Rounding
the cape was quite rough but crossing the bay was a hoot as Don and I had our sails
up only had to put in two strokes to catch any wave we wanted. The others just
muttered to themselves something about feeling like they were in the Sydney to
Hobart yacht race. We just laughed and sped off.
That night after an Abalone dinner we got some light showers of rain and by the
morning we awoke to full winter with heavy showers inky black skies and strong
winds buffeting the tent. Getting out of the tent was not inviting. Unfortunately the
wind was a 15 knot head wind. We broke camp in the rain and headed out into gray
rough water. As we rounded the headland the big sets were already 3 meters and the
rebound made paddling difficult. We had a hard days paddle but at least our campsite
was out of the wind. We set up camp in the rain, as it had not stopped all day. Don
caught more Abalone but by now was hard pressed to get us to eat it, yet again. I
mean you can only eat so much Abalone and I think he was a little put out by our
groans of “not more bloody Abalone”.
It rained all that night and was still raining when we broke camp facing a 20 knot
head wind. Constant rain for 2 days was starting to piss us off. We had to do 28
kilometers so it was going to be a hard slog. The seas had really picked up but in the
bay there were two small islands we could use to shelter from the wind and waves. As
we headed out around a little headland and island the gray seas melded with the gray
sky. As I paddled up a wave the top spilled picking up the front of my boat and
dumping it half a meter to the right. Hard left rudder and sweeping on my right the
bow started to come around. Up, up, up and over the next wave the bow was back on
track. Up the next wave and the top spilled picking up my bow and dumping it half a
meter to the right. Ok, hard left rudder and swear at the wind. This was going to be
one of those days. All you could do is hunker down and plod on. There was no point
if getting pissed off as it was not going to change anything. Look at the scenery and
forget the time and speed. Just try to enjoy the sensation of paddling a rough sea.
By the time we reached the second island Don was looking very tired and in pain. He
told us his shoulder was painful but he would be all right. As we still had 11 to 12 km
to go, in that sort of head wind, it was going to be a test of endurance and pain
threshold for Don. There was nothing we could do to help apart from tow him if
things got too bad. I didn’t mention that as he was doing very well so far.
As we left the island and rounded the lee point a large braking wave came through
just as Don was over the reef. It picked up the boat and cork screwed him into the
water. He recovered immediately he was back in his boat with the pump on before
John got over to lend a hand. Talk about having a bad day. I felt sorry for Don, but
once again there was nothing we could do. Fortunately Don is an experienced
paddler, so the dunking did not affect his paddling, even though the “f” word may
have been used in his descriptive sentences.
We had 7 kilometers to the next lee shore. Don kept up a good pace till the last few
kilometers. When we arrived and could finally get out of the boats for lunch it was a
relief for all of us. We had arranged to meet Pam at Hammerhead as she was going
to do the last few days with us. I switched on the radio at the set time and called Pam.
She suggested we go back 3 kilometers to a little sheltered bay to pick her up. We
explained politely that there was know way in the world we were going back one
paddle stroke let alone 3 kilometers. I think she picked up from our tone that the bay
we had arranged, even though it was in the full force of the wind, was where we were
going to pick her up.
When we got there Pam’s friends had BBQ’s and hot soup with crusty bread for us.
We had to go up the track to get out of the wind but that was much better than back
paddling. The lunch was magnificent and our thanks go out to the Sprags for their
wonderful hospitality. Don was at a low point and was considering pulling out if Pam
did not join us. As it turned out Pam joined us and Don kept going. We decided the
best camp site was 4 kilometers across the bay so we mentally prepared for the last
slog. Fortunately the wind started to drop and it was not too bad. The campsite was
perfect and the rain had finally gone.
The next day the sky was still overcast and we still had a 10 to 15 knot head wind.
Now as we rounded the headland the big sets were the size of houses. Up front was
this huge spout of water. It must have been going up 100 meters. As we got closer we
could see an island. The huge sets were crashing into the seaward side sending up
incredible spouts, and then a wall of white water would cascade over the top of the
island. It was spectacular and sobering at the same time. The raw power was
unbelievable and paddling near the island dangerous. I got some video of Tel near
the island but the lens was spattered with water and I nearly went over three times.
We decided to move on to where the others were sheltering behind another island.
It was a very slow day and a surf landing. The high light was John picking up a huge
wave out the back and surfing it. Everybody was expecting a bad outcome when John
expertly did a cut back and came flying off the lip doing 20 kilometers per hour while
the huge wave curled and thundered into the beach. Unbelievable!
When everyone was finally in safely we had a discussion. Pam was going to pull out,
as she did not want to slow us up. Don was still not sure, so I rang for a weather
forecast to help with the decision. A satellite phone is invaluable in these
circumstances. The forecast was for light tail winds for the rest of the trip with easing
swells. That solved the problem we were all going on. That is providing we got off the
beach as the surf was picking up.
The surf was quite big in the morning. Where we landed the big sets were too big to
break out and every now and then even bigger nasty sets broke 20 meters behind
them. Not a good option. Up the beach a 100 meters there was a strong rip going out.
The big sets would wipe you out but the smaller sets were not a problem. It was just a
matter of timing.
I chose to paddle the white water to the rip while the others floated their boats. We
decided to send Don and Terry out first Pam next followed by Tel, me, and John out
last. The main break was 100 meters from the beach with three to four sets of white
water between the break and the beach. To make it easier two of us held the boats
waist deep till the lull and then pushing them off to punch out the two to three small
sets to safety.
At one point I was holding the front of Pam’s boat when a particularly big wall of
white water hit us. At 1.84 meters and 90 plus kilos I managed to jump up and keep
my footing. John on the back being smaller and only 60 plus kilos was washed back 3
meters but like a terrier was back at the end of the boat in seconds. On the lull we
pushed of and Pam lit the afterburner. Over one, over two and out, to join Terry and
Don in the safe water. Tel next. Oops, we missed the lull. He was paddling furiously
as he hit the wave. The curl came over his head and I saw a hand and head appear
through the water. Oh dear. His paddle cleared the water still in his right hand. Much
to my surprise after wobbling and surfing backwards he got his other hand to the
paddle settled and started paddling out furiously. Up, up and over the next wave and
he was out. Phew, that left only me and John. When we joined the others I said to Tel
I thought he was a goner in the wave. He explained how he struggled to keep balance
as the paddle was ripped out of his hand and he was slammed into the back of the
cockpit hurting his back. The rest of the day was uneventful till we landed at lucky
Bay.
Where we landed was a small beach dump. Not a problem just needs good timing to
get off. We had lunch and started to head off with Don going first. Oh no, he missed
the timing and hit the curl of a big one. The wave broke stopping and spitting the boat
out backwards. Wobbling a bit but staying upright Don hit the beach 5 seconds after
taking off. Poor Don, but it did look hilarious and we were laughing at him being
spat out so fast. His second try was much better and he was out. Terry had the same
problem but managed to punch the curl and after wobbling precariously punched
out. When I got out I was joking with Don till he told me how he was slammed into
the back of his cockpit also hurting his back. Surf can be dangerous so I should show
more empathy before taking the piss.
The last day it was back to summer with a low swell no wind and wonderful warm
sun. We called past Woody Island and cruised into Esperence Harbor to a
Champaign reception put on by Pam’s friends who also organized the media to meet
us. For me it was a great trip. We had every season and everything from rough water
to glassy conditions, surf and huge swells to roaring tail winds. The company was
excellent and the coastline spectacular, what a shame it had to end. Les Allen
The first thing that struck me was that peculiar ultra white, squeaky sand that is so
typical of this area. We were at Poison Creek not Israelite Bay as the track to the bay
was too rough. Poison Creek was just about dry witch was good for us as the track for
the last 200 mt is the creek. We had followed the creek out to a lovely hard white
beach tucked into the corner of a bay with no surf, ideal for launching on the first
day. For some reason it was frantic packing and off, when there was no real urgency,
as we only had about 18 to 20 km to do that day. We waved goodbye to Pam and her
friend Mike who had driven us out to the beach and headed out around the point.
Don Kinset was out front, with me and Tel Williams was just behind when Terry
Boland called out. John DiNucci had turned back as he had left his maps in the car.
It was at this point I noticed the wind picking up as we rounded the point. A dreaded
head wind, and yes it was slowly building. There was sloping granite on our right
with scrubby bush on the slope of the hill. There was a bank of white cumulus clouds
on the horizon with wispy white cloud covering the rest of the sky that was typical of
an autumn day.
The only problem was the building head wind and constant rebound wave. The water
was gray with a meter high swell coming from our left, a meter high wind wave
coming head on and a half a meter rebound going at all angles. The boats were lifted
and dumped lifted and dumped with the bow or stern sliding off at different angles
breaking your paddle rhythm as the boats yawed through the mess. By the time we
had done 18 kilometers the head wind was a steady 15 to 16 knots.
There was a bay on our right and the map showed a small knob we had to round to
get into the bay. As we approached the rocky knob we could see it was attached to the
main land by a small sand bar and where the sand bar connected with the rocky knob
was the perfect campsite. Sheltered from the wind with a stark white beach and
crystal clear water lapping up to the beach. There were also well placed flat rocks that
made excellent dinning tables. There was no discussion everyone landed and started
making camp. Don fount heaps of large Abalone that fried with garlic and chili made
an excellent main meal
The next day was a perfect summer day with light breeze and warm sun. We headed
out to Middle Island and camped in the beautiful bay. I was expecting seals on the
island as we had them playing with us at all the islands on the way out but there were
no seals on Middle Island. We left camp for a walk and when we returned the camp
was being turned over by two Pacific Gulls. They were turning over clothes opening
bags and generally trashing the place. We though this was a bit rude as they showed
no fear when approached. To top it off a little while later a meter long lizard
wandered over and did the same thing. He rummaged through all of Terry’s clothes
actually climbing inside jumpers and tee shirts. After deciding there was no food
there he calmly wandered off. Of course Don found a heap of huge Abalone so it was
a seafood dinner again.
Day three was a typical spring day with scuddy moving cloud and a 15 knot wind at
6.30 am. We headed off to Cape Arid and the wind quickly built to 20 knots gusting to
25. The seas picked up but as they were going our way it didn’t matter. Rounding
the cape was quite rough but crossing the bay was a hoot as Don and I had our sails
up only had to put in two strokes to catch any wave we wanted. The others just
muttered to themselves something about feeling like they were in the Sydney to
Hobart yacht race. We just laughed and sped off.
That night after an Abalone dinner we got some light showers of rain and by the
morning we awoke to full winter with heavy showers inky black skies and strong
winds buffeting the tent. Getting out of the tent was not inviting. Unfortunately the
wind was a 15 knot head wind. We broke camp in the rain and headed out into gray
rough water. As we rounded the headland the big sets were already 3 meters and the
rebound made paddling difficult. We had a hard days paddle but at least our campsite
was out of the wind. We set up camp in the rain, as it had not stopped all day. Don
caught more Abalone but by now was hard pressed to get us to eat it, yet again. I
mean you can only eat so much Abalone and I think he was a little put out by our
groans of “not more bloody Abalone”.
It rained all that night and was still raining when we broke camp facing a 20 knot
head wind. Constant rain for 2 days was starting to piss us off. We had to do 28
kilometers so it was going to be a hard slog. The seas had really picked up but in the
bay there were two small islands we could use to shelter from the wind and waves. As
we headed out around a little headland and island the gray seas melded with the gray
sky. As I paddled up a wave the top spilled picking up the front of my boat and
dumping it half a meter to the right. Hard left rudder and sweeping on my right the
bow started to come around. Up, up, up and over the next wave the bow was back on
track. Up the next wave and the top spilled picking up my bow and dumping it half a
meter to the right. Ok, hard left rudder and swear at the wind. This was going to be
one of those days. All you could do is hunker down and plod on. There was no point
if getting pissed off as it was not going to change anything. Look at the scenery and
forget the time and speed. Just try to enjoy the sensation of paddling a rough sea.
By the time we reached the second island Don was looking very tired and in pain. He
told us his shoulder was painful but he would be all right. As we still had 11 to 12 km
to go, in that sort of head wind, it was going to be a test of endurance and pain
threshold for Don. There was nothing we could do to help apart from tow him if
things got too bad. I didn’t mention that as he was doing very well so far.
As we left the island and rounded the lee point a large braking wave came through
just as Don was over the reef. It picked up the boat and cork screwed him into the
water. He recovered immediately he was back in his boat with the pump on before
John got over to lend a hand. Talk about having a bad day. I felt sorry for Don, but
once again there was nothing we could do. Fortunately Don is an experienced
paddler, so the dunking did not affect his paddling, even though the “f” word may
have been used in his descriptive sentences.
We had 7 kilometers to the next lee shore. Don kept up a good pace till the last few
kilometers. When we arrived and could finally get out of the boats for lunch it was a
relief for all of us. We had arranged to meet Pam at Hammerhead as she was going
to do the last few days with us. I switched on the radio at the set time and called Pam.
She suggested we go back 3 kilometers to a little sheltered bay to pick her up. We
explained politely that there was know way in the world we were going back one
paddle stroke let alone 3 kilometers. I think she picked up from our tone that the bay
we had arranged, even though it was in the full force of the wind, was where we were
going to pick her up.
When we got there Pam’s friends had BBQ’s and hot soup with crusty bread for us.
We had to go up the track to get out of the wind but that was much better than back
paddling. The lunch was magnificent and our thanks go out to the Sprags for their
wonderful hospitality. Don was at a low point and was considering pulling out if Pam
did not join us. As it turned out Pam joined us and Don kept going. We decided the
best camp site was 4 kilometers across the bay so we mentally prepared for the last
slog. Fortunately the wind started to drop and it was not too bad. The campsite was
perfect and the rain had finally gone.
The next day the sky was still overcast and we still had a 10 to 15 knot head wind.
Now as we rounded the headland the big sets were the size of houses. Up front was
this huge spout of water. It must have been going up 100 meters. As we got closer we
could see an island. The huge sets were crashing into the seaward side sending up
incredible spouts, and then a wall of white water would cascade over the top of the
island. It was spectacular and sobering at the same time. The raw power was
unbelievable and paddling near the island dangerous. I got some video of Tel near
the island but the lens was spattered with water and I nearly went over three times.
We decided to move on to where the others were sheltering behind another island.
It was a very slow day and a surf landing. The high light was John picking up a huge
wave out the back and surfing it. Everybody was expecting a bad outcome when John
expertly did a cut back and came flying off the lip doing 20 kilometers per hour while
the huge wave curled and thundered into the beach. Unbelievable!
When everyone was finally in safely we had a discussion. Pam was going to pull out,
as she did not want to slow us up. Don was still not sure, so I rang for a weather
forecast to help with the decision. A satellite phone is invaluable in these
circumstances. The forecast was for light tail winds for the rest of the trip with easing
swells. That solved the problem we were all going on. That is providing we got off the
beach as the surf was picking up.
The surf was quite big in the morning. Where we landed the big sets were too big to
break out and every now and then even bigger nasty sets broke 20 meters behind
them. Not a good option. Up the beach a 100 meters there was a strong rip going out.
The big sets would wipe you out but the smaller sets were not a problem. It was just a
matter of timing.
I chose to paddle the white water to the rip while the others floated their boats. We
decided to send Don and Terry out first Pam next followed by Tel, me, and John out
last. The main break was 100 meters from the beach with three to four sets of white
water between the break and the beach. To make it easier two of us held the boats
waist deep till the lull and then pushing them off to punch out the two to three small
sets to safety.
At one point I was holding the front of Pam’s boat when a particularly big wall of
white water hit us. At 1.84 meters and 90 plus kilos I managed to jump up and keep
my footing. John on the back being smaller and only 60 plus kilos was washed back 3
meters but like a terrier was back at the end of the boat in seconds. On the lull we
pushed of and Pam lit the afterburner. Over one, over two and out, to join Terry and
Don in the safe water. Tel next. Oops, we missed the lull. He was paddling furiously
as he hit the wave. The curl came over his head and I saw a hand and head appear
through the water. Oh dear. His paddle cleared the water still in his right hand. Much
to my surprise after wobbling and surfing backwards he got his other hand to the
paddle settled and started paddling out furiously. Up, up and over the next wave and
he was out. Phew, that left only me and John. When we joined the others I said to Tel
I thought he was a goner in the wave. He explained how he struggled to keep balance
as the paddle was ripped out of his hand and he was slammed into the back of the
cockpit hurting his back. The rest of the day was uneventful till we landed at lucky
Bay.
Where we landed was a small beach dump. Not a problem just needs good timing to
get off. We had lunch and started to head off with Don going first. Oh no, he missed
the timing and hit the curl of a big one. The wave broke stopping and spitting the boat
out backwards. Wobbling a bit but staying upright Don hit the beach 5 seconds after
taking off. Poor Don, but it did look hilarious and we were laughing at him being
spat out so fast. His second try was much better and he was out. Terry had the same
problem but managed to punch the curl and after wobbling precariously punched
out. When I got out I was joking with Don till he told me how he was slammed into
the back of his cockpit also hurting his back. Surf can be dangerous so I should show
more empathy before taking the piss.
The last day it was back to summer with a low swell no wind and wonderful warm
sun. We called past Woody Island and cruised into Esperence Harbor to a
Champaign reception put on by Pam’s friends who also organized the media to meet
us. For me it was a great trip. We had every season and everything from rough water
to glassy conditions, surf and huge swells to roaring tail winds. The company was
excellent and the coastline spectacular, what a shame it had to end. Les Allen
